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Denali - West Buttress Overview

The highest mountain in North America, Mt. McKinley has been the goal of aspiring high altitude climbers since it was first climbed in 1913. Its reputation as a highly coveted summit derives from its location near the Arctic Circle and the Pacific Ocean giving it some of the most ferocious weather in the world. Because of its weather and ease of access, some climbers use McKinley as a training ground for climbing the 8,000 meter peaks of the Himalaya, including Everest.

Most climbers ascend McKinley via the West Buttress route because it is relatively free of objective hazards and technical sections. The relative ease of the route combined with the number of middle-aged amateurs attempting it prompted one climber to call McKinley, "the Mid-Life Crisis Mountain." That being said, the West Buttress is very unforgiving of mistakes and even the most experienced climbers have failed or died on this route. Other popular routes of ascent include the Muldrow Glacier, the West Rib, the Cassin Ridge, and the South Buttress.

Mt. McKinley is also known by its Athabascan name Denali meaning "The Great One" and some climbers refuse to use "McKinley" when referring to this mountain. In fact, at least half a dozen names exist for the highest mountain in North America and most translate to "The Great One". The Americans are the only ones who bucked this trend and named it after some mediocre President from Ohio. Ever since the mountain's name was changed to McKinley, an effort has been under way to change it back to Denali. The State of Alaska now recognizes it as Denali and the Feds have changed the name of the national park in which Denali is the main attraction to Denali National Park. Congress, however, has shown little interest in changing the mountain's name.

The earliest attempts at climbing Denali began in the late-1800's. In 1906, Frederick Cook claimed the first ascent, but his claim was later discredited after his "summit" photos were proven to be from the summit of an insignificant peaklet more than 10 miles away from Denali's true summit. In 1910, a team of four "sourdoughs" with no previous mountaineering experience managed to climb the lower North Peak of Denali. Their claims were dismissed until later climbers found a 14-foot spruce pole they had erected near its summit.

The first documented ascent occurred in 1913 when a team led by Hudson Stuck reached the South Summit. Other notable ascents include Bradford Washburn's first ascent of the West Buttress in 1951 which later became the standard route of ascent. The first winter ascent was accomplished on February 28, 1967 and is documented in the mountaineering classic, MINUS 148.

-the following was copied from SummitPost.com =)

Denali 2010 - Group Equipment List

Category	Gear Name	Cost	Quantity
Cooking
	Stove (xgk-ex or whisperlite), screen, base		2
	expedition service kit for each type of stove		1
	fuel bottles (20 or 30 oz)		2
	white gas (in gallons)	40	4
	2 liter non-stick pot w/lid		1
	3 liter pot w/lid		1
	plastic spatula (cut-off handle)		1
	measuring/dipping cup		1
	plastic scrubbing brush		1
	lighters		4
	hand sanitizer (1 oz.)		2
	whiskey? (for basecamp)		1
Hardware
	ropes		1
	pickets + 36" sling + caribiner each		2
	ice axes with hammer		1
	ice screws		2
	shovels		1
	snow saws		1
	snow probe		1
	wands w/identifying colored tape on end (1 meter)		25
	2-person tent (Trango 2 or other large 2-person)		1
	parachute style snow anchors for tents		8
	GPS with route programmed and extra batteries		1
	AM-FM radio + batteries		1
	map of route		1
	iridium satellite phone + 2 batteries		1
	solar charger		1
Medical Kit
	Sterile Gauze (roll) - 2"		1
	Sterile Gauze - 3"x3"		5
	Ace Bandage		1
	compress		1
	tourniquet		1
	benadryl (25mg)		6
	blister kit		1
	bisacodyl (10mg) - constipation		15
	Diamox		5
	CPR face shield		1
	salt tablets - dehydration		3
	immodium - diarrhea		10
	adhesive tape roll -small		1
	blood stopper		1
	butterfly bandaid or steri strips		6
	Telfa non-stick 3" x 2"		6
	Betadine		1
	Alcohol prep pads		5
	Pain medicine		20
	Dramamine		6
	Tweezers		1
	Sterile latex gloves		1
	dexamethasone - cerebral edema (4mg)		12
	3x Anti-Biotic Ointment (packets)		6
Repair Kit
	baling wire (in ft.)		5
	duct tape - small (roll)		1
	multipurpose tool		1
	tent pole repair sleeve		1
	patching nylon for tents (ripstop)		1
	sewing needle and thread/dental floss		1
	small seam grip		1
	zip ties		6
	nylon cord (50 feet)		1