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Denali - West Buttress Overview

The highest mountain in North America, Mt. McKinley has been the goal of aspiring high altitude climbers since it was first climbed in 1913. Its reputation as a highly coveted summit derives from its location near the Arctic Circle and the Pacific Ocean giving it some of the most ferocious weather in the world. Because of its weather and ease of access, some climbers use McKinley as a training ground for climbing the 8,000 meter peaks of the Himalaya, including Everest.

Most climbers ascend McKinley via the West Buttress route because it is relatively free of objective hazards and technical sections. The relative ease of the route combined with the number of middle-aged amateurs attempting it prompted one climber to call McKinley, "the Mid-Life Crisis Mountain." That being said, the West Buttress is very unforgiving of mistakes and even the most experienced climbers have failed or died on this route. Other popular routes of ascent include the Muldrow Glacier, the West Rib, the Cassin Ridge, and the South Buttress.

Mt. McKinley is also known by its Athabascan name Denali meaning "The Great One" and some climbers refuse to use "McKinley" when referring to this mountain. In fact, at least half a dozen names exist for the highest mountain in North America and most translate to "The Great One". The Americans are the only ones who bucked this trend and named it after some mediocre President from Ohio. Ever since the mountain's name was changed to McKinley, an effort has been under way to change it back to Denali. The State of Alaska now recognizes it as Denali and the Feds have changed the name of the national park in which Denali is the main attraction to Denali National Park. Congress, however, has shown little interest in changing the mountain's name.

The earliest attempts at climbing Denali began in the late-1800's. In 1906, Frederick Cook claimed the first ascent, but his claim was later discredited after his "summit" photos were proven to be from the summit of an insignificant peaklet more than 10 miles away from Denali's true summit. In 1910, a team of four "sourdoughs" with no previous mountaineering experience managed to climb the lower North Peak of Denali. Their claims were dismissed until later climbers found a 14-foot spruce pole they had erected near its summit.

The first documented ascent occurred in 1913 when a team led by Hudson Stuck reached the South Summit. Other notable ascents include Bradford Washburn's first ascent of the West Buttress in 1951 which later became the standard route of ascent. The first winter ascent was accomplished on February 28, 1967 and is documented in the mountaineering classic, MINUS 148.

-the following was copied from SummitPost.com =)

Denali 2010 - Group Equipment List

Category	Gear Name	Cost	Quantity
Cooking
	Stove (xgk-ex or whisperlite), screen, base		2
	expedition service kit for each type of stove		1
	fuel bottles (20 or 30 oz)		2
	white gas (in gallons)	40	4
	2 liter non-stick pot w/lid		1
	3 liter pot w/lid		1
	plastic spatula (cut-off handle)		1
	measuring/dipping cup		1
	plastic scrubbing brush		1
	lighters		4
	hand sanitizer (1 oz.)		2
	whiskey? (for basecamp)		1
Hardware
	ropes		1
	pickets + 36" sling + caribiner each		2
	ice axes with hammer		1
	ice screws		2
	shovels		1
	snow saws		1
	snow probe		1
	wands w/identifying colored tape on end (1 meter)		25
	2-person tent (Trango 2 or other large 2-person)		1
	parachute style snow anchors for tents		8
	GPS with route programmed and extra batteries		1
	AM-FM radio + batteries		1
	map of route		1
	iridium satellite phone + 2 batteries		1
	solar charger		1
Medical Kit
	Sterile Gauze (roll) - 2"		1
	Sterile Gauze - 3"x3"		5
	Ace Bandage		1
	compress		1
	tourniquet		1
	benadryl (25mg)		6
	blister kit		1
	bisacodyl (10mg) - constipation		15
	Diamox		5
	CPR face shield		1
	salt tablets - dehydration		3
	immodium - diarrhea		10
	adhesive tape roll -small		1
	blood stopper		1
	butterfly bandaid or steri strips		6
	Telfa non-stick 3" x 2"		6
	Betadine		1
	Alcohol prep pads		5
	Pain medicine		20
	Dramamine		6
	Tweezers		1
	Sterile latex gloves		1
	dexamethasone - cerebral edema (4mg)		12
	3x Anti-Biotic Ointment (packets)		6
Repair Kit
	baling wire (in ft.)		5
	duct tape - small (roll)		1
	multipurpose tool		1
	tent pole repair sleeve		1
	patching nylon for tents (ripstop)		1
	sewing needle and thread/dental floss		1
	small seam grip		1
	zip ties		6
	nylon cord (50 feet)		1

Updated: 2010 Team B-US Denali West Buttress/Upper West Rib Climb Itinerary

After some discussion, it was decided to back off on the full West Rib attempt, and instead focus on getting up the West Buttress with a possible Upper West Rib attempt from 14k camp. If time and weather allows, a light and fast second summit attempt of the full West Rib is not out of the question!

May 8: Jan arrives in Anchorage.

Jan arrives in Anchorage after 20+ hour flight with three legs, pretty waisted. Happy to have a large comfortable bed. Jetlag.

May 9: Andy arrives in Anchorage

Jan sleeps and does some shopping. Things are getting pretty hectic. Jan is still suffering from jetlag.. Things are getting even more hectic once Andy has arrived. Pick up sat phone, do more shopping, coordinate shopping lists.

May 10: Transfer to Talkeetna
 Another possibility to pick up the sat-phone. Some last minute shopping. Morning shuttle to Talkeetna. Briefing with rangers  at 4 p.m. in Talkeetna.

May 11: Flight into BC  7100 ft (2164 m)

Some weather reserve (we have the whole  day to fly in). Hopefully we can fly in in the morning.

May 12: Climb Radio Control Tower (8670 ft / 2643 m)

If the flight is in the morning, May 11, we could try to climb the mountain afternoon.In that case, and if  we feel ok, we can start moving upwards on May 12.

May 13:  Move to 7,800 ft (2377 m) camp 
A standard slog day. Huff and puff on skis with fully loaded bags. The camp can be also at 8000 ft.

May 14: Move to 9,500 ft (2895 m) camp

Another standard slog day. Another huff and puff with fully loaded bags.  Can also be done as a cache and carry project if start moving on May 12.

May 15: Rest (option Mount Capps 10,545 ft /3,214 m)

If feeling bad/tired: rest. Moving 2 days with about 60 kg per person and unacclimatized  should not be underestimated. If feeling ok, it is possible to climb Mount Capps or cashe to the next camp.

May 16: Cache  to 11,000 ft (3352 m) camp

May 17: Move to 11,000 ft (3352 m) camp

May 18: rest

To give body time to recover. Get extra acclimatization.

May 19: Cache to 14,200 ft (4328 m) camp
May 20: Move to 14,200 ft (4328 m) camp

May 21: Rest

To give body time to recover. Get extra acclimatization.

May 22 - May 28: Summit push activities

Example West Buttress:

May 22: Cache to 17,200 ft (5242 m) camp

May 23: Move to 17,200 ft (5242 m) camp

May 24: climb higher + return to 14,200 ft camp
May 25: rest
May 26: Move to 17,200 ft camp
May 27: rest/reserve
May 28: Summit day 20320 ft / 6194 m

Includes flexibility to descend to the lower camp if feeling bad / for recovery.If not necessary, either summit push/ some extra acclimatization/ reserve days

Example Upper West Rib:

May 22: Cache to 17,200 ft (5242 m) camp

May 23: Move to 17,200 ft (5242 m) camp

May 24: rest or  climb higher; descend to 14,200 ft (4328 m) camp
May 25: move to the base of West Rib junction 16,000 ft  (4877 m)
May 26: Move to 17, 000  ft (5182 m) camp on West Rib
May 27: Summit day, descend to 17,200 ft (5242 m) camp on West Butt
May 28: reserve

I wouldn't suggest to plan the summit earlier than day 18. Only if we feel ok, and conditions are right, we could try earlier.

May 29: Descend to 11,000 ft (3352 m) camp
May 30: Descend to base camp, fly out

Descent can be done in one day if need be. Strenuous, but possible. Saves one extra reserve day.

May 31: reserve
June 1: reserve
June 2: reserve
June 3: reserve
June 4: reserve

Those badly needed reserve days.We are happy to have them.

June 5: Andy leaves Anchorage 1:30 a.m.

Team B-US Denali West Rib Climb Itinerary

In Anchorage:
May 8 : Jan arrives in Anchorage. begin trip preparation at hostel.
May 9: Andy arrives in Anchorage. pick up sat. phone, pack, and shop for Denali.
May 10: Morning shuttle to Talkeetna, Afternoon meeting with Rangers. Continue to pack and shop for Denali. Find Hudson Air Taxi. ID sleds, and rig.

Arrival on the Kahiltna glacier:
May 11: Morning flight into the kahiltna glacier (7200'), ski past Camp 1 to 8000ft (Mouth of NE Fork) and set up base camp. Drop cache for NE Fork/West Rib attempt. - 6 miles, 800ft gain.
May 12: Ski to 11000ft (Motorcycle hill camp), drop cache. Return to 8000ft. - 10 miles r/t, 3000ft gain
May 13: Ski to 11000ft, sort and pack gear for west buttress aclimation trip and high cache. - 5 miles, 3000ft gain.
May 14: pack and rest for west buttress, ski around area.

West Buttress acclimatization trip:
May 15: Drop Skis. Carry cache to windy corner @ 13,500ft, return to 11,000ft camp - 4 miles r/t, 2500ft gain.
May 16: Climb to Camp IV @ 14,200ft, set up high camp - 3 miles, 3200ft gain
May 17: Retrieve cache at 13,500ft, return to camp IV. - 2 miles r/t, 700 ft gain
May 18: Active rest day at altitude. Carry cache to West Rib junction @ 16,000ft. - 4 miles r/t, 1800ft gain
May 19: Active rest day at altitude. Practice on Fixed Ropes.

Plan A - West Rib portion of the trip:
May 20: descend west butt to 8000' base camp, pick up skis at 11,000ft camp.
May 21: ski up NE fork of Kahiltna to "moderately safe" camp II (10000'). - 3 miles, 2000ft gain
May 22: ski west rib col approach, to 11000' on the NE Kahiltna, send the col to gain the ridge at 12,800', climb lower rib to camp III (13,300'.) (big day, but at this point we are honed) - 2 miles, 3300ft. gain
May 23: climb lower rib to camp IV (~16,000') - 1 mile, 2700ft gain
May 24: rest at 16,000'
May 25: Summit day! climb upper rib to summit ridge, slog ridge to the top of the continent. descend west Buttress to Genet Basin (14,000'). - 2 miles, 4000ft gain
May 26: Rest day.
May 27: Ski/Descend to Base camp (8000').
May 28: Ski/Descend to landing strip and pack for departure.
May 29: Weather/Rest Day
May 30: Weather/Rest Day
May 31: Weather/Rest Day
June 1: Weather/Rest Day
June 2: Weather/Rest Day
June 3: Weather/Rest Day
June 4: Weather/Rest Day
June 5: Andy Flies out to Talkeetna in the morning. Jan keeps climbing?

Plan B - West Buttress from 14K Camp:
May 20: Carry cache to Ridge Camp @ 16,200ft, return to 14k camp. - 4 miles r/t, 2000ft. gain
May 21: Rest day at 14k camp
May 22: Move to High Camp @ 17,200ft - 2 miles, 3000ft. gain
May 23: Rest day @ 17,200ft
May 24: Summit Day or pick up Cache @ 16,200ft. - 6 miles r/t, 3200ft gain
May 25: Summit day!
May 26: Summit day!
May 27: Summit day!
May 28: Summit day!
May 29: Summit day!
May 30: Descend to 14K Camp
May 31: Ski/Descend to 8000ft base camp
June 1: Ski/Descend to Landing strip and pack for departure
June 2: Weather/Rest Day/Bonus Climbing/Skiing
June 3: Weather/Rest Day/Bonus Climbing/Skiing
June 4: Weather/Rest Day/Bonus Climbing/Skiing
June 5: Andy Flies out to Talkeetna in the Morning. Jan keeps climbing?

Spirit of Morgantown Half-Ironman Race Report

Quick and Dirty:

Swim: 31:17
T1: 1:15
Bike: 2:33:50
T2: 1:11
Run: 1:45:53
TOTAL: 4:53:24

Swim -

New type of swim start which consisted of running off the pier, and jumping off into the water. I found myself praying that no one behind was going to jump on top of me while I was under water. I popped back up, and started flailing trying to get up to speed. Water temp was at the perfect point where pro's were sans wetsuits and age-groupers could wear them. Awesome to be able to hang with the pro's for AT LEAST the swim... swam through some traffic on the back half of the loop, and then hit some serious current as we neared the dam. Raised the effort to get around the buoy's as quick as I could, and then cruised back using the current to my advantage on the way in.

T1 -

LOOOONG run from the swim exit back to the transition area which was situated on the ground floor of a parking deck.

Bike -

Potholes. Everywhere. Worst roads I have ever ridden on in a race, but that made it kind of interesting in a way, and kept me focused on the task at hand. Most of the super deep wheel swallowing holes were marked with paint to help with dodging. Some technical turns, a couple steady hills, some long smoking fast descents, and a nasty 100 meter 8% climb at the end of each loop helped to keep the racing honest. Stayed within myself and paced off one of the elite/pro male dudes for most of the ride. Got an extended Infinit shower during the ride, but its all good.

T2 -

Standard. Grabbed my iced hat and make shift neck cooler out of my cooler that I brought with. Sweet!

Run -

Weakest of the 3 for me, as usual. Run course is entirely flat, with the first 1.5 miles on pavement in the sun, and the next 2 miles on dirt in the shade. Shake, repeat a couple times, and you just completed your half-mary. Felt good in the first mile, and the second, and third mile, but after that I began to fade - and HARD. I was melting in the heat (oh yeah, temps were in the upper 80's and humid by this point). Grabbed all the cold water and ice I could carry at each aid station, and just tried to survive to the finish. I did, barely!

Overall -

13th overall, and 3rd in the AG. Surprisingly fun race, and one I may have to do again next year. Maybe they will re-pave some of those roads? Doubt it...

3 weeks until Canada. Time to rest up, and let all this work pay off!

Mountaineer Half Pre-Race

Spirit of Mountaineer on tap this weekend. It is supposed to be HOTT, and not the skinny-triathletes-in-spandex kind of HOTT. Maybe I'll pack an ice chest for some relief at the start of the run??

It would be great to finally have a breakout half-IM race! With all the IM build training I think this is a good shot to do it...will the heat foil my plans? Only time will tell...

Tentative A+ race execution times: :28/2:25/1:40 ....must dig deep - no excuses!

See ya out there.