Updated: 2010 Team B-US Denali West Buttress/Upper West Rib Climb Itinerary

After some discussion, it was decided to back off on the full West Rib attempt, and instead focus on getting up the West Buttress with a possible Upper West Rib attempt from 14k camp. If time and weather allows, a light and fast second summit attempt of the full West Rib is not out of the question!

May 8: Jan arrives in Anchorage.

Jan arrives in Anchorage after 20+ hour flight with three legs, pretty waisted. Happy to have a large comfortable bed. Jetlag.

May 9: Andy arrives in Anchorage

Jan sleeps and does some shopping. Things are getting pretty hectic. Jan is still suffering from jetlag.. Things are getting even more hectic once Andy has arrived. Pick up sat phone, do more shopping, coordinate shopping lists.

May 10: Transfer to Talkeetna
 Another possibility to pick up the sat-phone. Some last minute shopping. Morning shuttle to Talkeetna. Briefing with rangers  at 4 p.m. in Talkeetna.

May 11: Flight into BC  7100 ft (2164 m)

Some weather reserve (we have the whole  day to fly in). Hopefully we can fly in in the morning.

May 12: Climb Radio Control Tower (8670 ft / 2643 m)

If the flight is in the morning, May 11, we could try to climb the mountain afternoon.In that case, and if  we feel ok, we can start moving upwards on May 12.

May 13:  Move to 7,800 ft (2377 m) camp 
A standard slog day. Huff and puff on skis with fully loaded bags. The camp can be also at 8000 ft.

May 14: Move to 9,500 ft (2895 m) camp

Another standard slog day. Another huff and puff with fully loaded bags.  Can also be done as a cache and carry project if start moving on May 12.

May 15: Rest (option Mount Capps 10,545 ft /3,214 m)

If feeling bad/tired: rest. Moving 2 days with about 60 kg per person and unacclimatized  should not be underestimated. If feeling ok, it is possible to climb Mount Capps or cashe to the next camp.

May 16: Cache  to 11,000 ft (3352 m) camp

May 17: Move to 11,000 ft (3352 m) camp

May 18: rest

To give body time to recover. Get extra acclimatization.

May 19: Cache to 14,200 ft (4328 m) camp
May 20: Move to 14,200 ft (4328 m) camp

May 21: Rest

To give body time to recover. Get extra acclimatization.

May 22 - May 28: Summit push activities

Example West Buttress:

May 22: Cache to 17,200 ft (5242 m) camp

May 23: Move to 17,200 ft (5242 m) camp

May 24: climb higher + return to 14,200 ft camp
May 25: rest
May 26: Move to 17,200 ft camp
May 27: rest/reserve
May 28: Summit day 20320 ft / 6194 m

Includes flexibility to descend to the lower camp if feeling bad / for recovery.If not necessary, either summit push/ some extra acclimatization/ reserve days

Example Upper West Rib:

May 22: Cache to 17,200 ft (5242 m) camp

May 23: Move to 17,200 ft (5242 m) camp

May 24: rest or  climb higher; descend to 14,200 ft (4328 m) camp
May 25: move to the base of West Rib junction 16,000 ft  (4877 m)
May 26: Move to 17, 000  ft (5182 m) camp on West Rib
May 27: Summit day, descend to 17,200 ft (5242 m) camp on West Butt
May 28: reserve

I wouldn't suggest to plan the summit earlier than day 18. Only if we feel ok, and conditions are right, we could try earlier.

May 29: Descend to 11,000 ft (3352 m) camp
May 30: Descend to base camp, fly out

Descent can be done in one day if need be. Strenuous, but possible. Saves one extra reserve day.

May 31: reserve
June 1: reserve
June 2: reserve
June 3: reserve
June 4: reserve

Those badly needed reserve days.We are happy to have them.

June 5: Andy leaves Anchorage 1:30 a.m.